Did you see him surf yesterday? A single wave with a heat score of 1.77. He would be the only one from today’s elimination heats to trouble any of the top seeds. Didn’t hurt Igarashi, though, he sizzled on that SharpEye, like he did at J-Bay last year. Kanoa paddled up the reef with Deivid Silva, a tactic that I am yet to find any advantage for in a three-man heat. If he says “your gal was so well behaved last night, in fact the whole week long” I’d be packing the suitcase. If Joe said the sky is blue, it’s almost certainly time to hit the storm bunker. Joe Turpel: “These are the waves KP was talking about.”Īfter SurfAds piece on the fully muzzled commentary it almost seems the problem is more deeply existential. First elimination heat and the wildcard paddled into a zippy close-out for a 0.5 to start the day. I tips me lid to you.Ĭhances of running seemed nil but KP said he saw runners on the incoming tide, with a better, more southerly angle. You there, with the booties, over-sized Cymatic and GathHhat. I only say German, not to be racialist, but to pay homage to my favourite overseas species of VAL. Six heats run and done in silky little toy waves at Keramas. “It’s an honour making boards and I gotta find a way to service people the best I can.” Still, if you email Akila at and y’tell him what you want, he’ll make a custom in four-to-six weeks for $US550.Īkila has a flight attendant pal who’ll bring it over for an extra fifty. I’ve always been a one-on-one board builder. It ain’t as simple as jumping on the website. The last time I was that engaged in watching a heat was watching Sunny winning an OP Pro on a board I made in 2001.”Īkila’s voice softens, “We’re hurting on our brother.” “I was flabbergasted and flattered and baffled that he chose to ride it at one of the most high-performance waves in the world with a lot of eyes watching. When he saw Kelly on his board via the webcast Akila says he felt a “wonderment.” I like the sensation of that kinetic load on a bottom turn and the feedback on a top turn.” Epoxy does some weird chattering because of its memory. “I was getting so many texts, is that epoxy? Is that PU? I don’t like the sensation of epoxy, personally. The bottom curve is vee though the nose, a single concave under the front foot that hits a double and then turns into vee through the fins. It’s just a board, a rocker, a rail and I try and tie all the subtleties together.” When I laugh at the vague measurements, Akila says, “I just connect the dots. He grabbed the five eight, which is somewhere between 18 3/8″ and 18 1/2″ and maybe 2 1/4″ on the rail. They can’t see that shit!’ There’s this conformist fucking mentality on tour, and it’s always been there, and until they have a more open and a better judging criteria of skill, none of it will ever make any sense.” If you do take it out, walk up the beach, don’t show anyone. “I told him, ‘Holy shit, I don’t know if the judges are ready for that. When Keramas was revealed to be three foot, Kelly told Akila he was thinking about surfing the twin in his heat. Kelly was interested in riding one of Akila’s famous twin-fins so Akila suggested he make a quiver, which included the twin, the rest thrusters some with Kelly’s fin placements, some with Akila’s.Īkila made seven boards: a twin-finned 5’5″, the rest 5’7″s, 5’8″s and 5’9’s”. He likes the freedom he gets to pivot and to jam in the pocket. Akila is five-ten and he’ll ride five-twos and five-threes. They can’t see that shit!’ There’s this conformist fucking mentality on tour, and it’s always been there, and until they have a more open and a better judging criteria of skill, none of it will ever make any sense.” AKILA AIPA See, Akila and Kelly have been pals for close on thirty years, Akila part of the same Hawaiian pack that included Shane Dorian and Ross Williams. The board is part of a seven-board quiver Akila made Kelly earlier this year. It lit a little candle of hope in the deep dark cave of Kelly’s retirement year.” Kelly and the turn of the day at Keramas on his Akila Aipa-shaped five eight. You don’t get these sorta bargains or how do they say it now, opportunities, very often.Īkila Aipa, a former pro surfer and the son of the great Hawaiian shaper Ben Aipa, will build for you, and according to your specific dimensions, a version of the five-eight squash-tail Kelly Slater used to beat hell out of Keramas two days ago.Īs our tour correspondent reported, “Kelly leant back into a savage back foot heavy layback hook. Tell me this ain't a bargain in a world of thousand-dollar boards.
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